Town Market – Formerly known as Estella Market, named after Estella, Countess Cave, sister of General Sir Lloyd Mattews (first Minister of Zanzibar Government) and widow of Earl Cave – fruit and vegetables of all kinds are sold in great profusion; while in the Saidiyeh Market which was opened in 1904 and named after the dynasty of Sultans (Albusaid) – fish, meat and poultry are on sale.
The Slave Market – the Cathedral stands on the last slave market to open in Zanzibar. The Christian religion played a significant role and Britain in particular in suppressing the slave trade. The mission was directly inspired by an appeal made by Dr.Livingstone.
The Slave Chambers – Beneath St. Monica’s House lay underground chambers that were used to hold slaves for the nearby market. Peace Memorial- On the 11th November 1925 His Highness Sultan Seyyid Sir Khalifa bin Haroub named it Bait el Amaan – the House of Peace. Built as a Peace Memorial from the funds subscribed by the various committees, and founded largely owing to the enthusiasm of Dr. A .H. Surrier, its first Curator.
The Museum was opened on Armistice Day 1925. The architect was Mr. J. H. Sinclair whose original sketches are preserved in the museum. The design derived from the type of a circular mosque building originated in Constantinople (Istanbul). Due to the activities of the Museum it was decided in 1929 to build an extension to the existing premises which was opened in 1930.
Anglican Church – The foundation stone was laid in 1873. Bishop Steere was the master builder and clerk of the works. His absence for a short period resulted in the marble pillars of the Baptistery being erected upside down. That is how they are seen today.
Natural Museum – It was the first of its kind in all of East Africa and was used as a library for many historic surveys which include a valuable library of books on Zanzibar and East Africa. An attractive display of plaster Bas-reliefs of fish, crustacea, etc., painted in their natural colors can be found. The exhibits also include stuffed specimens of local birds, a small but useful herbarium of native plants, and a collection of shells.
Africa House (former English Club) – Has a fine curved door and was formerly used as an English Club by many English people who were residents of Zanzibar.
Sultan Palace: (Palace Museum) The building was first occupied by a reigning sovereign in 1911 when the late Sultan Seyyid Sir Khalifa bin Haroub acceded. Before then it accommodated members of the Royal family and the harem. General Sir Lloyd Mathews also lived here for some time and eventually died here. The walled garden is the site of a former royal palace, Beit el-Sahil (the house near the sea) that was built a little before 1834 by Seyyid Said (Sultan 1804-1856). Now a Museum it depicts the memoirs of the Al-Busaidi Dynasty.
Old Dispensary – Built in July 1887 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s Reign. It housed a dispensary in the ground floor with a pharmacy and a resident doctor. Since its inauguration about 100 years ago, the old dispensary has been hailed as a symbol of multi-cultural Zanzibar architecture – Its design, it s rich decoration and its construction techniques are one of exceptional quality. The plan of the U-shaped building is a traditional pattern and is characterised by a series of rather small, mostly independent rooms arranged along the interior arcades facing a central courtyard.
Old Harbour – is an anchorage for dhows which visit Zanzibar in the northeast monsoon (December – March) and return in the south-west monsoon (April – October). Some of these vessels are fine examples of the oriental ship-building and remain to play an important part in the trade between Zanzibar and other coastal towns of East Africa.
Kibweni Palace (Kassrusaada Palace) – One of the country residences of his Highness the Sultan. This was built in 1915 from the designs of Mr. J.H Sinclair, C.M.G., C.B.E., (successively Consul, Chief Secretary and British Resident in Zanzibar from 1899 – 1924). The Palace and grounds are not open to the public.
Persian Baths (Kidichi) – are a legally protected historical monument. This block of Persian-style bath comprises of a country house of Sultan Seyyid Said, Zanzibar ruler in 1804 – 1856. Traditionally, the rest house was built for the use of his Persian wife, Princess Sherezade, the grand daughter of Mohammad Shah of Persia whom he married in 1847. A date 1247 A.H. (1832 A.D.) is inscribed into stuccowork decorating the interior of the baths. If the time of construction is affirmed, the Sultan must have built the baths before the marriage took place.
Prison (Changu) Island – (Giant Tortoise) This island is approximately half a mile long and one-eighth of a mile wide and was formerly owned by an Arab and used as a private place of detention for recalcitrant slaves. General Mathews bought it and the gaol which still stands was built in 1893 as a central prison for Zanzibar. It was however never utilized as such. It also housed the infectious disease hospital for Zanzibar. There are many large tortoises here, some of them over 3ft in diameter. Excellent bathing may be had from the shore facing the Town, which is a favorite resort for picnic parties.
Jozani Forest – This remnant of primeval forest, some 2 1/4 square miles in area and the only one of its kind on the island, is the home of pigs, monkeys, leopards and occasionally pythons, and contains many interesting forest trees. The forest has now been declared a reserve and holds the rare Colobus monkeys not to be seen anywhere else in the world. It was closed to control exploitation in 1957 to allow rejuvenation and is being systematically replanted with mtondoo (Calophyllum inophyllum).
Dunga Palace – Here lived the Mwinyi Mkuu, the last but one of a long dynasty of chiefs of supposed Shirazian descent who were the rulers of Zanzibar before the permanent Arab settlement from Oman in the early 18th century. Their subjects looked upon the chiefs in greatest awe and veneration. The builder of the existing ruins was born probably about 1785 and died in 1865. The Palace, which was erected between 1845 and 1856, was pulled down in1910 or 1911 and only a few of the walls remain. Some years ago the sacred Swahili drums and horns of curved wood were found here.
Kizimkazi (Dimbani) – is thought by some to have been one of the old capitals of the island. Traces of old Shirazian settlement (probably a fort) may still be seen in an enclosure surrounded by a wall near the seashore. A spot on the shore is said by the natives to have been the place where the founder of the settlement, praying to be saved from his enemies, disappeared in a rock which opened and shut behind him. Near the walled enclosure is an ancient mosque (Shirazian), the scenes of recent archaeological research, which may be entered with permission and provided the visitor’s shoes are first removed. The most interesting part of the mosque is the ornate MIHRAB (corresponding to the alter in a Christian church) and the north wall, along which there is a frieze of passages from the Koran. An inscription in Kufic characters on the left of the MIHRAB gives the date of the building of the mosque as A.H 500 (A.D 1107). Nearby there is another inscription (in Arabic) which states that the mosque was repaired in A.H. 1184 (A.D. 1770). The mosque, which is thought to be the only one on the East African Coast where so much Kufic exists, has been the subject of a monograph by Professor Flury of Cairo (the Kufic Inscriptions of Kizimkazi Mosque is still in use today.) Outside is a well and graves of Sheriffs said to be the descendants of the Prophet Muhammad.
High Court: – Mr. J.H. Sinclair a C.B.E., designed the Courts and the court has been constructed in Saracen style which may be recognized by the clock and domed roof. On top of the building there was a ring (no longer in place) that in other Muslim countries is said to represent the ring by which, on the last day the Archangel Gabriel will carry the structure to heaven. In the centre is a fine curved door that is well worth inspection.
Mangapwani (the Arab Shore) – a district in which live many Arabs. In the village there is a Police Station, also a large Government “Bungalow” which was built by the Arab who originally owned Prison Island. In the locality of Mangapwani, slaves were often received and shipped. A subterranean chamber on the shore, some ten minutes walk to the north of the bungalow, served as a place of concealment pending their disposal. A cleverly concealed path cut into the rock leads from near the chamber to the beach.
Arab Chests – A curio which entices the money out of your pocket. Known to be made in Persia and India, are only identified with Arabs on account of the fact that they have been an item of importation into Zanzibar by dhows which come from Arabia and the adjacent countries. They are made, for most part, of teak and are kept on stands or round wooden blocks. They have lock-and-key drawers and a small internal lidded compartment along brass hinges running up inside of the lid. They are secured by a hasp, staple (often the middle one of three) and padlock.
Tippu Tip House – The house was once the residence of the well-known Arab traveller and trader, Hamad bin Mohamed el-Marjebi (Tippu Tip) who died in 1905. He is said to have earned his sobriquet from the fact that his red-rimmed eyes resembled those of a small bird known locally as the Tippu Tip bird and scientifically by the name Centropus’s Supercilious. One of his swords and other relics has been presented to the Museum.
Old Fort – was built by Albusaidi family of Oman in the 17th century. They used it for the purpose of defending themselves against any threats from Portuguese or Omani rival groups. In the latter part of the 16th century the Portuguese established a trading depot on the site of the existing Arab Fort. A church was also erected at a later date on the same spot. After the expulsion of the Portuguese, the Arabs used the materials of these building to construct a fort. Early in the 18th century Fatima, whom the Portuguese records describe as “Queen” of Zanzibar was living under close supervision somewhere in the vicinity of this fort. She remained loyal while the rest of the Swahilis allied themselves with Oman.
House of Wonders – The largest building ever seen in Zanzibar was erected in 1883 by Seyyid Barghash (Sultan 1870-1888) for ceremonial purposes. It is said to have been designed by a marine engineer. On the death of Seyyid Hamad (Sultan 1893-1896), it was bombarded with adjoining buildings by the British fleet during the brief usurpation of the throne by Seyyid Khalid, (the shortest war in history) but unlike the other buildings, it suffered comparatively little damage. The clock tower added later to replace the former lighthouse which stood by itself on the front close to the sea that was severely damaged in the bombardment. By the clock tower at the entrance stand two fine Old Portuguese guns made not later than the middle of the 16th century. On the larger one are the Portuguese Royal Arms, the cipher (ornate) and standard of King John III, and the plan sphere of the world.
Dr. David Livingstone House – now housing the offices of Zanzibar Tourist Corporation, was placed at the disposal of the famous explorer Dr. David Livingstone for some weeks when fitting out his last expedition to the mainland in 1866. It later became the properties of Ithnasheri Khoja-Indian community who used it as a rest house for invalids and as a place of religious meeting to be known as Sonbagh. In 1947 the Government purchased it and renovated for the use of a laboratory for scientific research and living quarters.
Marhubi Palace (Ruins and Gardens) – It was bought by Seyyid Barghash (Sultan 1870 – 1888) from an Arab of the Maruhubi tribe (hence the name). The estate is thickly planted with mango trees imported from India and the stone aqueducts were constructed for the supply of water from Chem-Chem spring to the Palace and Baths and for cultivation purposes. At the end of the avenue of mango trees are the artificial ponds adorned with blue water lilies (Nymphoea capensis), a beautiful sight when in flower. Seyyid Barghash built the Palace for the use of his harem in 1880 – 1882. The walls surrounding the gardens are said to have cost 16,000 English Pounds (a large sum of money in those days), and to have inspired by the park walls seen by Seyyid Baraghash in 1875 when on a visit to England. The Palace was accidentally burnt down in 1899, but some of the pillars that supported large balconies and part of the walls still remain. Adjoining the palace are the domed Persian Baths from which however, the marble pavements and other embellishments have been removed. Conversations under the domes produce strange echoes. The Royal Navy used the Baths during the 1914-1918 Wars.
Grave Island (Chapwani) – Formerly known as “French Island” contains a cemetery which was reserved in 1879 by Seyyid Barghash (Sultan 1870 – 1888) for the burial of English people. Bishop Steere consecrated it in 1880. Here are the graves of old residents of Zanzibar and officers and men of the Royal Navy and the Merchant Marine who have died in Zanzibar since 1811. Amongst them are those of some of the British sailors who were killed in action between H.M.S. Pegasus and the German cruiser Koenigsberg in September 1914. Also buried here are Colonel Hamerton, the first British Consul (died 1857), and Lieutenant Cooper, R.N of H.M.S
This is a small island that lies between Grave and Prison Islands. It is uninhibited except by flying foxes which cross to Zanzibar at dusk to feed on the fruit trees.
Bawe Island – This island is uninhabited, having been ceded to the Cables & Wireless company by Seyyid Baraghash (Sultan 1870 – 1888).
Chumbe Island – The lighthouse on this Island, which is eight miles from Zanzibar and opposite Chukwani, was erected in 1990 and now contains an automatic light. There is a mosque near the lighthouse; Ships proceeding to Dar-es-Salaam pass close on the port bow. The Island has been developed into a Nature Reserve and harbours one of the most spectacular coral gardens in the world. Also on the island is Chumbe Reef Sanctuary which boasts of 7 Eco-Bungalows en-suite with solar-powered halogen lights which blends perfectly with the surrounding nature and is situated between the beach and the forest.
Catholic Church (St Joseph’s) – This was formerly a cathedral until Zanzibar became part of the combined diocese of Mombasa and Zanzibar. It was originally proposed in 1894 that this cathedral should be designed by Mr. Pordage, First Engineer to His Highness Government, and it is recorded that he asked for eight days in which to prepare the plans. Subsequently it was designed in Romanesque style by Mr. M Berangier, the architect of Notre Dame de la Garde at Marseilles. The first stone was laid in the foundations on the 10th July 1896 and the work was executed by lay brothers with local workmen supervised by Father Kuhn who came from Europe for the work. Bishop Allgeyer, Vicar-Apostle of Zanzibar celebrated the first Mass on 25th December 1898 in the new cathedral.
Mtoni Palace (Mtoni, the place of river) – The Palace, which was described by Burton as looking like a Gothic castle of a German Prince, was unusually large and is said to have accommodated 1,000 dependents. An Arab named Said bin Haramili who reputed to have first introduced the clove tree into Zanzibar from Mauritius or Bourbon built this house some time before 1828. Seyyid Said (Sultan 1804 – 1856) is said to have confiscated the building on the ground that Saleh was indulging in slave trade in contravention of a treaty, which Seyyid Said had concluded in 1822 with Great Britain. On his departure for Muscat three months later, he left his son Khaled in residence there as Governor of Zanzibar. Most of Seyyid Said’s many children (sixteen sons and sixteen daughters survived him) were born in Mtoni. The life at the palace has been described by one daughter (Seyyida Salme, who married a German) in Memoirs of an Arab Princess.
Zanzibar Doors – Zanzibar town has one feature in particular, which besides being one of its most distinctive characteristics, is of special interest and attraction, namely, its antique Arab Doors. A fine door was considered a most important part of an Arab house and it was the custom for a prospective builder first to order a carved door-frame and then get it fixed in its place and to build the house on to it. This procedure is still followed. The door which frequently had the householder’s monogram, together with the date incorporated in the curving on the lintel, was regarded as an indication of his social status. The typical door is a halved door, made of one of the more termite and weatherproof foreign woods such as teak or sesame, and is set in a square frame. Each half-door is decorated with pointed brass bosses, the right one (looking from inside) terminating in a heavy, carved centre-panel which covers the junction, with the left one. Incidentally, the names for the right and left door signify – “the male door” and “the female door.” The door is closed from inside by means of a bolt and from outside by means of a hasp suspended from a chain fixed in the left half-door.